Briefs
Volume 8 Number 3 May 1996
This past December, a HAMS trip led by Terry Root, trekked the backcountry and climbed the two highest summits, Pico Bolivar (5007m) and Pico Humboldt (4942m) in Venezuela. Terry led a team of five HAMS members who experienced a range of great variety with charming villages, strange upland moors, dark cloud forests and two intriguing peaks - one of rock and one of snow.
Join Terry Root and Linda Grey for a slide show on this recent trip.
American Mountaineering Center Auditorium
710 10th St., Golden
7 PM, Monday, May 20, 1996
Public Invited, no admission fee.
The EXCOM of HAMS met on March 21. The following is a summary of topics and events discussed.
* Schools. 20 students completed the HAMS school this year. Randy Eisen will lead the "graduation" trip to Rainier this year with Ken Yarcho as co-leader. The search for a new school director is on- going.
* Expeditions. Trips being planned are Grand Canyon (May '96), Mt. Rainier (July '96), the Mexican Volcanoes (November '96) and Bolivia (June '97). A trip to Russia to climb Elbrus is once again being discussed. Tentatively scheduled for '97, the trip would be similar to the first HAMS trip to Elbrus (two week timetable). Malcolm Wentling has resigned as Expeditions Committee Chair. Thanks for all your work on this committee Malcolm! A search has been started for his replacement.
* Equipment. A policy for lending equipment is being worked on. Standards need to be set so the equipment person for each trip knows how to apply for an equipment loan.
* Research. All trip reports have been researched and a list developed of all trip leaders on HAMS trips. A database documenting climbs is also in the works. Anyone who has taken reports from files and not returned them -- Please Do!! These reports are a valuable resource that other section members want to use also.
* Section News. At the March 18, 1996 HAMS program and meeting, Kay Miller was elected for a second term (1/1/96 to 1/1/97) as secretary/treasurer. John Wallack, currently serving as the newsletter (Thin Air) chairman, was elected as the HAMS chairman for a term running from 1/1/97 to 1/1/99.
is the newsletter of the High Altitude Mountaineering Section,
published five times annually.
Editors: John and Kris
Wallack
Staff: Linda Grey, Terry Root
SUBMISSIONS ARE WELCOME!
Send submissions to the CMC clubrooms, 710
10th Street #200 Golden, Co. 80401. Our job is easier if you put it on a disk
in any common DOS/Windows format and include a hard copy. But feel free to type
or handwrite if you wish, make sure it’s legible.
DEADLINE NEXT ISSUE : August 15, 1996
exists to promote an interest and awareness in expedition mountaineering
within the Colorado Mountain Club.Dues are $7 annually.
Chairman: Ward Hobert
Past Chairman: Steve
Bonowski
Secretary/Treasurer: Kay Miller
Programs Committee:
Beth Schlichter *
Jennifer Sears
School Directors:
Hams School: Terry Root
Crampon School: Paul Wilson
Social: Keith Jensen
Newsletter Committee: Kris Wallack *
John Wallack *
Terry Root
Linda Grey
Publicity: Andy
White
Data Processing: Paula Engel
Equipment Committee:
Ken Yarcho *
Craig Patterson
Expeditions: Currently
Open
Research: Paul Wilson
Denver Group Council Liaison:
Ginger Ellis
* = committee chair
Briefs12 year old Merrick Johnston is the youngest person to summit Denali. After a rigorous training regime of hiking with a full pack for four to five hours twice a week, four days each week of gymnastics and snowboarding on the weekends, Merrick began her 26 day approach. Accompanied by her mother ("Would you send a 12 year old up by herself?") and a guide team, the youngster reached the summit on June 23. She plans to climb all of the seven summits -- after completing seventh grade!
The body of a 500 year old Inca girl was discovered by American archeologist and mountaineer, Dr. Johan Reinhard, and Peruvian climbing guide, Miguel Zarate. In September, the two were climbing 20,700' ft. Mt. Ampato in the Peruvian Andes. Recent volcanic activity apparently melted the icecap and revealed a broken sacrificial platform a cache of figurines and the body of the girl wearing a feather headdress. Reinhard wrapped the frozen body and carried it down the mountain while Zarate cut steps. The two returned in October with a team of Peruvian archeologists and climbing guides and a National Geographic television crew. Two more Inca bodies were discovered. Both a film and an article should appear this summer.
Q: All of the recent hoopla about melatonin has made me wonder. I know sleeping pills normally depress breathing rate, and are, therefore, not appropriate for use at high altitude. Would melatonin be a good sleeping aid for high altitude mountaineers?
A: We asked Dr. Mark Selland of University of Colorado Health Sciences Center, and a past HAMS Seminar lecturer. He says, "Melatonin has been suggested by some for possible use as an aid in sleeping at high altitude, but no clinical evaluations or controlled studies have been conducted. My recommendation is still for Diamox. Most sleep disturbances at high altitude are caused by breathing difficulties and the resulting erratic blood oxygen levels. One half of a 125 milligram Diamox table at bedtime has been demonstrated to significantly improve sleep. This low dosage does not cause the annoying increase in urination or tingling of toes or fingers.
In early March, Popocatepetal, more commonly called El Popo, in Mexico once again rumbled to life. An estimated 10,000 tons of ash and sulfuric steam has covered nearby villages. Locals have climbed up to caves high on the 17,887 ft. volcano to make offerings imploring El Popo not to erupt. Scientists, however, are not alarmed and do not believe a major eruption is eminent. The last major eruption was in 1664 but El Popo sputters frequently. The last rumble, 15 months ago, caused enough concern for the government to evacuate several thousand residents.
Over the last two years, HAMS has been surveying the members to find out what mountains they are interested in climbing. The results of the survey to date what respondents would like to climb by per cent:
16% - in Africa - Kilimanjaro
16% - in South America - various high peaks
16% - in Washington State - various high peaks
13% - in Alaska - McKinley
13% - in Europe - various high peaks
11% - in Mexico - volcanoes
7% - in Canada - various peaks
The remaining respondents expressed interest in Equador, Iran, Peru and Wyoming. Now we must make a call for leaders to step forward. The HAMS group has equipment for approved trips and expertise to help organize your trip. If you are interested in leading any HAMS trip, please contact Ward Hobert (303) 279-5113 or any other HAMS Bd. member-- Paul Wilson
All of the above are extended to the members of the recent (January, 1996) Aconcagua trip led by Craig Patterson. The very complete First Aid Kit was donated to HAMS after the successful trip and climb. The kit is still intact except for the use of some Cipro. Individual thanks to Brian Wickham, an EMT and member of the trip, who put the kit together. - Ken Yarcho
Duct TapeLast fall while on a CMC trekking and climbing trip to Nepal I noticed a Sherpa with a blown out shoe. The next morning I saw the Sherpa packed up and leaving camp with his shoe "repaired" by a healthy wrap of duct tape - presumably supplied by his client from California. I thought of a friend, an engineer I worked with for many years, who had been involved with development of duct tape in the 1950’s. I decided I should write something up on the history of this ubiquitous product.
Duct tape was developed during World War II as a general purpose repair tape for use in the war effort. It had to have good adhesion and strength properties, but the significant distinguishing characteristic was that it needed to be "waterproof". The earliest versions were bandaging tapes modified with a polyethylene coating for waterproofing. (Bear in mind that during World War II plastics were just making their world debut and this would have been considered high tech.) The duct tape that we know and love is still made of the same three basic ingredients: pressure sensitive adhesive (usually rubber based, sometimes urethane), cotton cloth or "scrim" and a plastic film (usually polyethylene sometimes vinyl).
The original tapes, which were olive drab in color, were a success and continued to be made and improved upon after the war. During the 1950’s they began to be commonly used for securing and sealing air ducts. It was at this time that they took on their characteristic silver-gray color and the name "duct" tape. It was also at this time that my friend Fred Klepetar worked on the tapes.
Fred, a Jew, was born in Germany. He was in his early teens as the Nazi power grew. His family could see the great tragedy coming and put him on the back of a truck heading out of Germany. He eventually made his way to the US, and never saw his family again. They presumably died in the Holocaust. In the 1950’s Fred was working for Johns- Manville who had purchased a line of tape products from the Dutch Brand Company. Fred’s contribution was to develop a single automated process that applied adhesive to one side of the cotton cloth, polyethylene film to the other side and coated the polyethylene with a release agent that allows the tape to be unwound from the roll.
In the years that followed duct tape became popular with Americans for repairing upholstery, bandaging blisters, patching clothes, securing hostages, sealing packages and generally to fix things. Today many variations are available. In addition to the standard 2 inch width on a 3 inch diameter core it is available in widths from 3/4" to 6", and on 1.5 inch diameter cores that are easier to pack. Of course colors other than silver gray are available. You may also run across something called gaffer’s tape or stage tape. It is very similar to what we know as duct tape except that it offers less adhesion so that it can be removed without leaving an adhesive residue, and it has a non-reflective flat finish.
Judging from a brief overview of duct tape manufacturers’ literature I conclude that there is a significant range of quality available. There does not seem to be widely used industry specification. There is a Mil spec. Soldiers call it 90-mile-per-hour (or 100-mile-per-hour) tape. However, its correct tittle is, "Tape: Packaging, Waterproof PPP-T- 60E Type IV Class I". And, yes, it is still available in olive drab.
Several comments have been received on the subject of fitness. The experienced climbers seem to always be in good shape -- but the aspiring climber often asks, "How do I achieve this fitness and how can I be sure I am fit enough to tackle a big mountain?" In the belief that aerobic fitness rather than muscular strength and agility is more applicable to high altitude mountaineering, I have prepared several articles based on my experiences which include coaching my children in competitive running and cycling. I believe these principals apply to high altitude climbing also. This is the first article in a series.
In Randall's book Mount McKinley Climbers Handbook, he has a good discussion on how to estimate your aerobic fitness.
To estimate your aerobic fitness, run as far as possible in 15 minutes. Record the distance and then calculate your
MaxVO2 = (D / 15 - 133) * 0.172 + 33.3
2 miles ( 2.* 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 47
2.5 miles ( 2.5 * 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 57
3 miles ( 3. * 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 66
3.5 miles ( 3.5 * 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 75
4 miles ( 4. * 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 84
4.5 miles ( 4.5 * 1609 / 15 - 133 ) * 0.172 + 33.3 = 93
Minimally fit people score around 40. Champion athletes score in the 70's and 80's. (ref. Climbers Handbook, p10.)
Having performed the above test, you should train at a level where your heart is challenged to improve your fitness. This heart rate is known as the "training threshold". The range of heart rate during exercise should be in the training zone and should be of a significant duration. The "training zone" is computed as follows:
Lower training threshold: Heart rate = .55 * (max. heart rate- resting heart rate)+ resting heart rate
Upper training limit: Heart rate = .70 * (max. heart rate- resting heart rate)+ resting heart rate
Where your maximum heart rate is defined as 220 minus your age.
For example, a 25 year old with a resting rate of 70 beats per minute should have a training range heart rate between 139 and 158 beats per minute. (ref. Climbers Handbook, p10.) It should be pointed out that endurance athletes push the upper training limit to about 85%.
R = .55 * (220 - 25 - 70 ) + 70 = 138.75
R = .70 * (220 - 25 - 70 ) + 70 = 157.5
Randall's book gives guidelines for training duration, but the generally accepted method* to determine the duration deals with the recovery rate which your heart can achieve. To determine the duration, start with a short workout as suggested by Randall, i.e. 15 minutes, perform your exercise, stop, sit-down and rest as completely as possible for one minute, then take your pulse. If your heart rate is 100 or less beats per minute then you are ready for a longer duration workout next time. When you get longer than 1 hour you are very fit!
Please note that after you have done the above for a short time it will become natural and the need to do all the science will only be necessary occasionally.
* I can't provide a reference for this approach, I only know it has been in use for many years. I became aware of this approach during Olympic cycling trials at various seminars. I have a runners watch which schedules the one minute sessions and gives you a pulse readout every minute after you stop your exercise.
HAMS offers congratulations to Malcolm Wentling, also known as the "old gringo" (of HAMS) for his successful ascent of Venezuela's highest peak, Pico Bolivar, on New Year's Day, 1996. Bolivar is 16,427'. Malcolm has been involved in HAMS since its beginning at the end of 1988. He was our Section Chairman in 1991-92 and recently stepped down after serving as Expeditions Chairman since 1993.
Malcolm has now made successful ascents of four of the fabled Seven Summits: Aconcagua, Denali, Kilimanjaro and Elbrus. He's climbed the three highest peaks in Mexico. Malcolm has done four high peaks in Ecuador, including the two highest peaks (Chimborazo and Cotopaxi) along with his recent ascent of the two highest mountains in Venezuela. He's done some of Colorado's 14ers although he admits 14er bagging isn't his thing. We can see why if he's getting royally entertained at heights well above a Colorado 14er.--Steve Bonowski
NOTE: The series on International High Points by Steve Bonowski will resume in the September issue.
The sixth edition of the High Altitude Mountaineering School came to a close with an overnight at Second Creek on the weekend of February 24-25. Once again it was the dedication of our hard working instructors that made this year's school so successful! Thanks to:
Dave Anschicks Tom Maceyka
Bill Blazek Craig Patterson
Mike Copeland Laurie Pearce
Randy Eisen Brett Roggenkamp
Mike Endres Terry Root
Steve Hoffmeyer Tom Urban
Gary Hoover Paul Wilson
John Landers Ken Yarcho
Since 1976, Charley Mace has embarked on a climbing career that has taken him on numerous climbing expeditions around the world, even to the summit of K2. In this presentation, Charley chronicles his successful climb of Gasherbraum 2, one of the world's highest peaks. This 1993 expedition proved to be one of the most successful ascents ever in the Baltoro region of Pakistan with 12 out of 18 climbers summitting the 26,350 ft. peak. This presentation not only documents climbing G2 but also trekking through the remote Baltoro glacier. Don't miss this excellent show by Colorado climber Charley Mace.
Karen Young and Cleve Armstrong present their 1991 historical climb of Cho Oyu in Tibet. Karen Young made the first recorded American woman's ascent of Cho Oyu, the 11th highest peak in the world and was consequently awarded Colorado Sports Woman of the Year for Mountaineering in 1992. Overall, the expedition put four American climbers on the summit creating the first official American ascent of the mountain. Come share in this exciting slide presentation and see some spectacular and inspiring high altitude photography. Sign up at REI in Westminster.
Facing the perils of porter mutinies, avalanches and frostbite, an international team of seven climbers pioneered new climbs in the Indian Himalaya including the formidable Thalay Sagar at 22,750 ft. This successful British American expedition received the prestigious Nick Estcourt award in England. Join Colorado climber Jordan Campbell as he chronicles the beauty and drama of the Himalayas in this slide and video presentation. Don't miss this opportunity to see the spectacular Garhwal Himalaya.
All shows are FREE but have limited seating. Call 429-1800 to make reservations.
HAMS would like to develop a database of high altitude climbs of the various HAMS members to facilitate the interaction of members. Please take a minute to respond to the form below and we will enter the information into a computer file for your access or we will make a printout available at your request.
Name ________________________ Address ____________________________________________
Home Phone (____) ______________________ Do you mind if interested persons call you? _____OK?
List the mountains with elevation over 14500' (4420m) you have climbed. Also feel free to list lesser elevation Mountains requiring an expedition or significant logistics effort. Use your judgment as to what you think HAMS members would be interested in.
Summit Altitude Country / Date Guided or Comments
Location not guided
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
________________ ______ _______ ____ _______ _______________
If you need more space please use a separate sheet. If you have submitted a trip report we will include it in the database without your response. Thanks--HAMS EXCOM
Please mail your response to Paul Wilson, 39574 WCR 33, Ault, CO, 80610
Return to High Altitude Mountaineering Section.
![[CMC Logo]](emblem05.gif){kind=small}
Return to the
CMC home page.
Return to the CMC Information Service.