Trail & Timberline On-line — November-December, 1999
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Trail & Timberline featuresGuargualla, Ecuador
Wild Colorado featuring articles on the Wilderness Act "Just the Facts, Ma'am" CMC Public Land Policy Director Vera Smith makes a plea for a deeper understanding of wilderness Myths & Facts about Wilderness Volunteers further wilderness efforts Colorado Wilderness Bills of 1999 Happy Anniversary, Baby. The Wilderness act turns 35. Is it grown up yet? |
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T&T departments:Education |
CMCers experience ultimate” Peru adventureby Carol Saunders“Ultimate” it was, with at least 17,000 feet altitude gain, 14,600 feet loss, and seventy miles underfoot (which, of course, didn’t count the shopping and restaurant-seeking miles in Cuzco). Our final goal was Machu Picchu, but two weeks of exploring ruins through historical perspectives and walking to altitudes of 16,000 feet created a rich fabric of underpinning experience. There were fourteen of us CMCers plus Boulder guide Kevin Haight and our required Peruvian guide, Raul Gamarra. These two took turns breathing life into the many stories of the Incan civilization. We spent our first week at places near Cuzco, such as the Sacred Valley of the Urubamba River. Rumicollca is the ancient aqueduct, three stories high, of the Wari civilization that the Incas cut through in order to control the entrance to the Cuzco Valley. Farther on lie the Wari ceremonial center of Pikillacta and the archaeological dig at Chokepukio. Dr. Gordon McEwan, chief excavator and co-director of this project, met us, energetically explained the dig, and passed around objects found that very day. Dinner in Cuzco with him topped off our contact. Throughout the two weeks, our walking took us to sacred shrines that were exquisitely designed and built—probably to revere life-giving water. A succession of baths down a hillside still gushed pure water. We saw fine stonework in the sacred buildings as well as in those used primarily to store food, clothing, tools, and weapons. This stonework joined Pachamama (mother earth) to hewn rock along natural stone lines as well as to massive rocks mysteriously moved from distant places. The real work of our trek began on day seven. At the small village of Mollepata, we turned toward the trailhead of the ancient Inca route up and over the shoulder of Mt. Salkantay, the “Wild One” (20,580 feet). Hiking nine miles and gaining about 2,600 feet before camping at 13,200 gave us our first view of this massive mountain with snow, sheer crags, and self-generated weather. Day nine was the big push to the 16,500-foot pass (altimeters couldn’t agree on this) and proof-positive that this was one strong CMC team. In the half moonlight, the huge and graceful Salkantay massif dominated our attention (and some of our dreams). The success of our trek had almost everything to do with hearty, stalwart CMC hikers. It had a lot to do with Kevin’s and Gordon’s insights into Incan culture. It also had much to do with a support staff of porters and a chef. All told, it was, indeed, the ultimate Peru adventure. DON'T FORGET TO ORDER YOUR TICKETS FOR THE ROYAL ROBBINS
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