Destination Colorado:

Steamboat Springs

By Jennifer Harpaz

The Ute Indians roamed the lands of the Yampa Valley as early as the fourteenth century. It wasn’t until the 1800s, however, that early European settlers found their way into the lush valley. Legend has it that Steamboat Springs got its name in 1865 from three French fur trappers who were venturing down the Yampa River. When one of the men heard a noise like that of a paddle wheel steamer, the men sought out and found the sound. They discovered it to be a bubbling mineral spring, hence the creative town name.

James Crawford rediscovered the Yampa Valley in 1874 while on a hunting trip on the Gore Trail. A year later, he moved to Steamboat with his family, settled into his log cabin, and spread the word about the area. Pioneers rolled into Steamboat Springs. Eventually, Crawford, along with a few other settlers, claimed 160 acres each and registered homesteads to form the first community in the valley.

I understand the attraction. It has been a couple of months since I visited Steamboat Springs, but the memory of the experiences has not diminished. The exhilaration of fresh air, the sight of the aspen trees covered in snow, and the unpretentious character of the city still move me. Memories of Steamboat are always just below the surface of my consciousness.

I was fortunate. I had a personal tour guide, of sorts, in Fred Luhm, owner of Mountain Castles property management and Aspen View Lodge. My visit to Steamboat Springs this past February began with a tour of the lodge, a rustic chalet sheltered at the end of a dirt road in the Timbers Preserve subdivision outside of Steamboat Springs. As I strolled through the lodge, I thought to myself, “Aspen View Lodge, what an appropriate name.” From any window I looked out, I was consoled by a seemingly never-ending landscape of aspens. On the day I visited, snow was falling slowly and delicately, and I watched the aspens grow whiter and whiter.

Like the town of Steamboat Springs, the Aspen View Lodge has a charismatic past. It was built in the early 1970s to be a boarding school named Buckingham Academy. Today, the building still maintains its original character. Inside the lodge, the atmosphere is cozy, with chunky wood beams framing each room, vaulted ceilings, and true Colorado features such as a river-rock fireplace built three stories high and a majestic picture window. The lodge is reserved for groups only. With fourteen bedrooms and bathrooms, a game room, bar area, kitchen that seats forty, dry and wet sauna, and a gorgeous patio with hot tub, the lodge is practical for groups of all sizes. Luhm is working hard making the lodge a “True Colorado Experience,” with renovations starting this year. I soon appreciated the fact that the atmosphere of the lodge, inside and out, was, indeed, representative of the personality of Colorado and consistent with the immense beauty of the Yampa valley.

The Timbers Preserve subdivision is situated in a prime location for outdoor enthusiasts. It lies seven miles up Rabbit Ears pass from Steamboat Springs valley and about five miles from the west summit of Rabbit Ears pass. The area is surrounded by dedicated open space, wildlife preserves, and national forest. There are several trails that connect with the neighborhood. Mountain Castles says, “If you are up for a challenge, try the seven-mile-long Devil’s Hangover ski easement dedicated in 1938 which starts on the west summit and ends up at the Lodge. If hiking is your thing, let’s put it this way: you can walk out the door and hike to Wyoming if you like.”

Inspired by our first experience in the Timbers, we decided on a snowshoe from the summit of Rabbit Ears Pass on Saturday. The morning provided us with a crystal clear bright blue sky and crisp air. A storm the night before had gifted us with whipped cream­topped trees. The snow was packed lightly, making us feel as if we were walking through clouds.

That cold winter evening we realized we couldn’t travel to Steamboat without a visit to Strawberry Park Hot Springs. We got there just after sunset and stayed for a luxurious three hours, soaking in the various pools throughout the park. The hot springs are renowned for their unique and natural features. It’s a must-do. In the summer, I hear, there is great backpacking in the wilderness just outside of the park. Just think. You could end your trek with a plunge into the springs. What a great reward. I’m already planning my trip back for this adventure.

We had such a great time at the hot springs that we missed dinner that evening. When we return we hope to take Luhm’s advice and visit one of his recommended restaurants. He suggests Café Diva as a high-end choice. He also raves about Steamboat Smokehouse for the best barbecue and Old Town Pub for its authentic western atmosphere and grub.

Steamboat Springs and the surrounding area offer an abundance of possibilities in outdoor recreation during any season of the year. While a visit in the winter can bring about opportunities to sleigh ride, cross country ski, dog sled, ice skate, and of course, ski and snowboard, a call in the spring and summer brings about even more recreational opportunities. I’ll return several times during the spring and summer for multiple-day visits, allowing time to choose between climbing, horseback riding, llama trekking, mountain biking, canoeing, rafting, kayaking, and much more.

I now recognize Steamboat Springs as the place to be; to be alive, to be active, and to be yourself by doing whatever suits you while you’re there. Now that’s an authentic Colorado destination.

For more information on Steamboat Springs: Routt County and Steamboat Springs Community Center, 1289 Lincoln Avenue, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477. tel: (970)879-0240 x305; http://yampavalley.info/.