Thin Air is the news letter for the High Altitude Mountaineering Section of the Colorado Mountain Club. There are five issues of Thin Air each year: January, March, May,September, and November.
May HAMS Program
Naya Kanga
Section News
by John Wallack
The Lake District - Part One
by Terry Root
and Linda Grey
Chunder on the Equator
A messy ascent of Kilimanjaro
by John
Flinn
School News
Outing News
Briefs
compiled by Terry Root and Linda Grey
Saddling the border between Chile and Argentina, the enchanting Lake District contains some of the most outstanding scenery in the Andes and appeals to the climber and trekker alike. In this issue of Thin Air we will cover some of the unique climbing opportunities of the area. Next issue, we will look at trekking.
Volcanoes, huge glacial lakes, ancient rainforest, plunging waterfalls - these are the elements that make up the Lake District. At a latitude of 42 degrees S and close to the ocean, this northern most region of Patagonia has a mild and moist climate, not as severe as the more well known Tierra del Fuego to the south. Fertile farms and dense forests, dominated by beech, form the thin belt of Chile between the ocean and the crest of the Andes. Across the range into Argentina, the rain shadow effect produced by the mountains produces a drier forest that quickly changes to the endless pampas. The namesake of the area is the fiord-like lakes gouged into the landscape during the last ice age. Traveling on the lakes, one is surrounded by steep mountains draped with small glaciers. Especially in the fall (March, April) when there is a riot of colors, the effect is not unlike Norway or New Zealand. Some of the oldest and largest national parks in South America largely protect this high country and some key coastal areas. Transportation on both sides of the border is limited but unique, largely consisting of catamarans and buses run by private companies that ply the lakes and connect the short stretches of land between. Key points of entry are the cities of Puerto Montt in Chile and Bariloche in Argentina.
This area of the Andes has in the past (and to a lesser extent today) experienced a great deal of seismic activity, most spectacularly in the form of a chain of great volcanoes, most of which lie on the Chilean side of the Cordillera. Although not especially high (ranging up to 3776 meters), their close proximity to the ocean and sudden rise from near sea level often make for long climbs on heavily crevassed glaciers. Similar to climbs on our own western U. S. volcanoes, there are all levels offered, from simple walk-ups to demanding ice and rock work. Here's a sample of three of them.
The extinct volcano Lanin (3776 meters) is the highest peak in the area, as well as perhaps one of the easiest. Straddling the Chilean- Argentine frontier, it is best reached from the resort town of Junin de los Andes in Argentina where the local alpine club offers information and a basic map. Topo maps are notoriously poor because of age and often hard to get because of sensitivity to disputes between the two countries over borders. Easy bus service travels between Bariloche and Junin and continues on into Chile. Get off at Guarderia Tromen (1100 meters) where there is free camping and little else. The climb begins here and takes 2-3 days by way of the north-east ridge. Although some have done it without ice axe, crampons and with tennis shoes, it's better to be prepared for snow up through early summer (December) and for a small ice cap on top. In fact, this may be the best time to climb as the snow makes for better going on what becomes endless, steep scree later on. Two small and basic huts provide shelter at 2450 m and 2600 m. Camping is poor on the windy and steep slopes and water is only obtained by melting snow (iffy later in the year). There are outstanding views from this nearly perfectly shaped volcano.
Called "the Fuji of the Andes", the perfect snow cone of Osorno(2652 m) forms a lovely backdrop to a cruise on the Chilean lake of Todos los Santos. A great favorite with Chilean climbers and skiers, it presents a moderate climb on the standard route with some crevasse hazard. Take a local bus from Puerto Montt to the tiny crossroads of Ensenada and walk north a couple of kilometers where a dirt road enters Parque National Rosales. Entrance is free and while one can arrange for transport in P. Montt up the 15 kilometer road to the Tesla Hut, it is a delightful trek through several life zones to the above treeline ski area on the north-west side of the mountain. A care-taker is on duty at the hut (really a small lodge) where you can stay overnight for a nominal fee and be served meals for a bit more. The view is spectacular here, looking over shimmering lakes and lush fields as the sun dips into the ocean to the west. The 5000 foot climb begins with an alpine start up the scree fields of the ski area. A few hours later puts one on the glacier, normally a straightforward ascent directly for the summit, gradually steepening to 45 degrees. In case of white out, avoid the serious crevasse danger on the west side. Lenticulars and their associated winds are a common occurrence on Osorno. The summit is a small flat area with tremendous views of other volcanoes, often sticking out of a sea of clouds.
Monte Tronador (3460 m) is the premier peak of the area, lording over the wild and remote rain forest that surrounds it. Its name "Thunderer" comes from the many glaciers that calve off huge chunks of ice down the tall cliffs below the ice cap. An ancient and eroded massif has produced three main peaks. The tallest, Pico International, sits directly on the frontier and involves technical gear and experience. Bariloche, in Argentina, has an alpine club that has excellent information on climbing in the area. From Bariloche take the once a day bus to Pampa Linda where a disused road treks 10 kilometers to the Otto Meiling Hut, high above treeline on the east flank of the peak. This excellent climber's hut offers lodging and meals European style but at a fraction of the cost. With a very early start, move up onto the glacier and after several hours, approach the col between "International" and the easier Pico Argentina. This involves serious route finding through the large crevasses. Climb for the left shoulder of the main peak. From here a short section of 55 degree water ice leads around a false summit. The final summit involves 150' of extremely rotten 5.4. Tronador is known for atrocious weather and in some climbing seasons only a few parties have made the top.
From the summits of these peaks one will view literally dozens of other volcanoes that offer many rewarding climbing opportunities.
When most of us think of a fly
It's no more than a quarter inch high
But in Chile, they cruise
Like huge B-52's
With
a bite that will sure horrify!
L.G.
For a couple of weeks during the Andean summer, these pests plague the trekker/climber. While slow and easy to dispatch, waiting for them to land can be a form of torture!
A stray dog climbed Mt. Aconcagua and rescued two lost climbers before disappearing, the daily newspaper, Clarin, reported.
Austrian mountain guide, Armin Liedi, and four German climbers were beginning their ascent of Aconcagua when a mongrel began to tag along. The dog wandered off but later returned, and Liedi found it one morning shivering in the snow outside his tent.
"Then I decided to climb with him up to the peak and, if we made it, to call him Summit," the guide said.
At 21,000 feet, the dog helped save two lost Argentine climbers who were stricken by altitude sickness, barking to alert Liedi and his companions, who went to the aid of the pair.
The dog vanished after accompanying Liedi to the top of Aconcagua. "In the next few days, I'm going to go back to look for it and take it back to Austria," pledged Liedi.
The Mexican volcano, Popocatepetl (17,887'), erupted on December 21, 1994, spewing out hundreds of tons of ash over a 24 hour period. Roofs and cars in the nearby city of Peubla and various outlying districts were covered in a thick layer of gray ash as Popo shifted into a new phase of more lively volcanic activity.
Popocatepetl means "smoking mountain" in the Aztec language. In the past 600 years, 20 eruption phases have been recorded. Climbers have noticed an increase in emissions over the last two years before the present eruption.
After leading four successive expeditions to the volcanoes, HAMS cancelled the 1994 trip. The lodge at Tlamacas was closed and all roads blocked, effectively sealing off Popo and it's sister peak, Iztaccihuatl. No decision will be made on leading a trip this winter until the situation is evaluated this coming July.
The state division of wildlife is offering certificates to fund search-and-rescue efforts, as well as for non-game and endangered wildlife programs. They cost $1 for a year or $5 for five years and are available at most sporting goods. The club is studying whether to offer them to the membership.
The club probably will not offer them to the membership because of the logistics involved. Members are encouraged to purchase them on their own. - Keith Jensen
On March 29th, Jim Watts was killed while climbing in Organ Pipe National Monument in Arizona. Tackling one of the obscure desert peaks there, Jim became separated from his three friends. They heard some rock fall and went to investigate and found Jim with a severe head injury. Apparently a stack of rocks had come loose and hit him or caused him to fall. Efforts to revive him were unsuccessful.
Although he had spent the last several years living in California, Jim will be remembered by many CMC'ers from his years in Denver. He had climbed and traveled extensively in North America and Europe, including three recent HAMS trips. Jim greatly enjoyed going out for weeks at a time, sometimes bagging a dozen or more peaks, especially in his beloved Sierra Nevada. He's remembered by those of us who climbed with him for his strong love of mountaineering and his gentle wit. It was always a pleasure to climb with Jim. So long old friend.
Trekking in the Lake District of South America, update on current and future HAMS Outings, news on this year's upcoming Seminar and HAMS School, and more! Thin Air Deadline: August 6, 1995
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