ACROSS
8 Second but harder
9 Everest trek view
10 1980 boom
11 '94 HAMS success
12 Whymper's fame
13 Canaleta misery
14 Third in N.A.
15 N.W. giant
16 Ellingwood first
17 Picture perfect volcano
18 Seventh highest
Thin Air is the news letter for the High Altitude Mountaineering Section of the Colorado Mountain Club. There are five issues of Thin Air each year: January, March, May,September, and November.
Huascaran, Peru's highest peak, is located in the heart of the spectacular Cordillera Blanca. At 6,768 m (22,269 ft.) it is the fifth highest peak outside of Asia.
Join Kevin Haight, CMC member and organizer of the Western Hemisphere Expedition, for the slide presentation of his recent climb of the South Peak of Huascaran. Kevin reports that the climb was done "Peruvian style" -- "get up and down real fast so soroche doesn't have a chance to catch up with you;" a method in definite contrast to the one recommended by the CMC and HAMS.
The program will be in the American Mountaineering Center auditorium, 710 Tenth Street in Golden at 7:00 PM on November 20th.
In the absence of a chairman's report for this issue, here's a synopsis of what's happening in the section.
The annual fall seminar has begun and has attracted a record turnout. Over one hundred participants have signed up for the six week course that began October 10. Those interested in attending the two individual nights remaining, November 7 and November 14, may do so by paying $5 per event at the door. Featured will be lectures on Nutrition and Menu Planning and on Group Dynamics, as well as slides and videos on various high altitude adventures. The seminar is open to all CMC'ers. Both programs start at 7PM at the CMC auditorium in Golden.
The HAMS School will have it's field days on February 3, 10, 24 & 25this winter.Applications for the school will be accepted through November 20. The director expects to accept around thirty students. The organizational meeting for instructors will be December 12.For information about the school, contact Terry Root at 277-0694.
The next scheduled Hams outings, expeditions to Aconcagua and the Venezuelan Andes are full. Next year's Mt. Rainier trip is tentatively scheduled for five days over July 4 -8. Plans are being made for return trips to the Mexican Volcanoes next winter and Bolivia in June of 1997 led by Terry Root. John Goggin is still exploring the possibilities of a trip to Ushba in the Caucasus next summer. He expects to make a decision by the first of the year. The outings fee charged by the club will more than likely rise slightly next year.
Four trips remain on this winter's schedule, November 4, 18 and December 2, 16. Contact Steve Bonowski for information at 914-8255 or consult the last issue of Thin Air. While open to all qualified CMC'ers, these trips are especially designed for Section outings.
The Section has purchased another tent for use on HAMS sponsored expeditions and in the HAMS school. Despite recent inquiries, there are no plans to allow HAMS equipment to be used by the general membership due to expense and liability problems. Equipment Manager Ken Yarcho has set up a discount agreement with REI for HAMS that takes advantage of the club's tax exempt status.
Information about the CMC, including articles in recent Thin Air issues, is now available on the WWW at URL http://www.cmc.org/cmc/info_srv.html
Thin Air
Editors: John and
Kris Wallack
Staff: Linda Grey, Terry Root & Kim
Shaner
Send submissions to the CMC clubrooms
710 10th Street #200 Golden, Co.
80401
Submissions are welcome! Our job is easier if you put it on a
disk in any common DOS format and include a hard copy. But feel free to type or
handwrite if you wish, make sure it's legible.
DEADLINE NEXT ISSUE
DECEMBER 7
The High Altitude Section sent a trip down to New Zealand earlier this year and accomplished several firsts. It was the first outing for the section to the South Pacific. Second, it was the first outing that didn't get higher than a Colorado 14er. While the purpose of the High Altitude Section is to help CMC members get high (in altitude, please!), the trip to lower elevations represented a pleasant interlude from the normal "stagger up and kill thyself" type of adventure. It may also be the first HAMS trip where we used just about every possible transportation conveyance depending on what one was doing: planes, buses, vans, trains, feet, horses, and gondola cars.
The trip was led by Dan Leeth of the Denver Group, the founder and still occasional guru of HAMS. Steve Bonowski was the assistant leader. The trip was designed with three different scenarios scattered throughout the trip: day hikes from comfortable lodgings, two several night backpacks, and ample time for sightseeing in various cities.
We were met by Dan in Christchurch, on the South Island, in late February. The group enjoyed the sights of this beautiful, very British town, including getting exposed to the Wizard, the best known street orator in both New Zealand and Australia. The old boy drives a beat-up Volkswagen and has an opinion on just about everything. From Christchurch, we went via motor coach to Mount Cook National Park, one of the most idyllic settings on earth. Here we enjoyed two days of day hiking from our comfortable chalets.
One thing we immediately noticed was the cooperative weather: forget about the clouds and rain most travelers experience. We had little of it. From Mt. Cook, we caught a prop plane over the mountains to Queenstown, where we hung out for about a week. We spent three great nights and days on the Routeburn Track, considered by many to be more spectacular than the Milford Track. The day to go over Harris Pass dawned foggy with a little drizzle. But the mountain gods blessed us with clearing skies as we went over the pass. Back in Queenstown, several members of the party bussed to Milford Sound for a cruise under totally clear skies; no rain slickers needed! Small planes returned us to Queenstown. This author's well known fear of heights got a good test with his first (and bumpy) ride in a six seater.
From Queenstown, we had an interesting trip to the North Island. Due to some equipment problems, most of Air New Zealand's domestic 737 fleet was grounded. Instead of a direct flight to Rotorua, we flew there via Christchurch and then to Wellington, the capital. Still, thanks to some good work by Dan, we were only about two hours late getting into Rotorua. This town is the heart of the North Island thermal zone as well as the heart of the Maori culture. We had a fine time at a Maori "hangi", a re-creation of a ritual feast (no, we didn't have to sacrifice anybody, just a little cash).
After sightseeing around town, we bussed to Tongariro Park for another multi-day backpack. In its own way, this park with its moonlike volcanic landscape is more beautiful than the South Island parks. Our trek took us near two volcanoes, including an ascent of Tongariro with its spectacular Red Crater. While dormant, there are still steam vents. We were near the Ruapehu volcano which came back to life in September, but it was quite quiescent during our visit. Upon our return, we celebrated our accomplishment with a liberal dose of Steinlager, and cokes for those not imbibing anything stronger. We concluded with a group dinner at the Grand Chalet.
But the fun wasn't over yet as we caught the late morning train for a six hour ride back to Auckland.. Our luck continued to hold. If we had traveled the day before, Auckland would have been over twelve hours away due to derailment of a freight train. In Auckland, we had two full days of sightseeing for the zoo, various museums, downtown shopping for sheepskin rugs and other great stuff. Finally, we concluded with another group dinner. Of course, all good things must come to an end. But all ten participants boarded the "Friendly Skies" for an eleven hour flight to Los Angeles with many good memories. Thanks to Dan, Shirley DeLong, Shirley Mulvaney, Barb Wegner, Helma Newton, Sue Wetekamm, Stacey Sherlock, Stan Solfermoser, and Virginia Minick for making our rare HAMS low elevation trip a memorable one.
(Steve is a former chairman of HAMS and co-led the HAMS Elbrus Expedition last year. He is the currently elected Denver Group Chairman.)
Mt. Ruapehu, on the North Island, has erupted about 50 times since 1861.
The most recent eruption occured in late September and early October of this
year, believed to be the largest eruption in New Zealand in 400 years. One
spectacular phase recently produced a column of ash up to 25,000 feet and threw
blocks 1 km from the crater. The explosive nature of the eruptions is due to
steam caused by the contact of lava and water from the acidic lake in the
crater. Roads, railways, and airspace have been closed off around the
mountain.
From the Internet, compiled by Paula Engel
If you haven't climbed in the Tetons, you may be interested in the notes I have recently made. The Tetons are a hotbed for technical climbing. There are two professional guide services operating in the park. For the CMC'er who wants to do his own thing there are many routes, both technical and alpine, available. The Rossiter guide book is excellent for those not hiring a guide. Alpenglow Photography has excellent photographic guides available at the climbers' ranch and the ranger station for a small charge.
The latest rules for the park do not require climbing permits but do require camping permits. There is no charge for the camping permits but you must get the permit from the ranger station at Jenny Lake on the first day. Your permit will be valid for the second night up to a maximum of two nights. For example, arrive on Saturday after lunch and find out that all campsites are taken. Return at 7 a.m. on Sunday and sign up for two camp days. Hike to your campsite Monday. You must return Wednesday and go through the whole thing again for two more days. Get your permit on Thursday a.m., hike on Friday, climb on Saturday and Sunday. Reservations are not allowed and the camp permits are first-come, first-serve. I have been told that if you carefully select and request a bivouac site to camp at, that you can avoid the first day wait, but you will have to be off the beaten track and have a plausible story for a very knowledgeable ranger.
As to where to stay, there is no question that the American Alpine Club's Climbing Ranch isthe place to stay. It is open to any climber, and you do not have to be an AAC member. This is the place to interact with other climbers to discuss routes, etc. The Ranch consists of ten or so spotless, dormitory cabins with bunk beds. The rooms have bunks for four to six persons. Each cabin has toilet, sink, hot & cold water and either a tub or shower. Cooking is in a central outdoor area with a roof and many tables. Nearby is a shower house with separate women's and men's facilities, including an area to cleanup your dishes. The Ranch has a library with facilities for slide shows and a pay phone. The cost is $5.50 per night per person. The Ranch usually fills up each night, but you can make reservations by mail or in person. From the Denver area you need to leave early enough (4 a.m.) in order to be there shortly after lunch to have a place to stay. It is noticeable that there are climbers staying there for more than a month and climbing every day.
As you should expect, the park and nearby Jackson will have no vacancy without reservations.
The Climbing Ranch is located 2.7 miles south of the south junction to Jenny Lake, or 3.8 miles north of the south entrance to the park.
Please note that when I say you need an ice axe, you could also need crampons, depending on how early you push the climbing season. All of the snow fields I could see in mid August had good steps, as in a trail.
(Paul is a long time member of HAMS and is currently the Publicity Coordinator on the Executive Committee.)
Resources:
Teton Classics by Richard Rossiter
A Climber's Guide to the Tetons by Leigh Ortenburger
USGS map "Grand Teton National Park" 1:62500
Teton Ranger Station (at Jenny Lake) for climbing conditions from climbing rangers 307-739-3343
AAC Climbing Ranch mid June through mid September PO Box 57, Moose WY 83012 307-733- 7271
EXUM Mountain Guides mid June through mid September Box 56, Moose WY 83012 307-733- 2297
Jackson Hole Mountain Guides PO Box 7477, Jackson, WY, 83001 307-733-4979
Mossely Seconds for gear rental near Moose Junction
Alpenglow Photography PO Box 83, Moose WY 83012
Grand Teton Natural History Association
The results of the HAMS survey a few issues back in Thin Air are in on the question whether to discontinue the newsletter. Of about fifty responses turned in, only one ballot wanted to merge the newsletter into Trail and Timberline. All other respondents wished for Thin Air to continue as a separate entity, except for one guy who wrote to complain that he had sent in his five bucks to join the singles group and somehow ended up in HAMS. The newsletter will continue as it is (except maybe we should add a "singles personals" section. Like SWF seeks ice-man with all the tools??)
Joint trip with the fellow masochists from the Southern Arizona Hiking Club. Leave Thursday evening, Friday night arrival and dinner on your own. Saturday hike from the South Rim to the North Rim and back. Drive home on Sunday after the survivors breakfast at El Tovar. ABSOLUTELY TIGERS ONLY!!! Sign-up begins in December and a MANDATORY pre-trip meeting in February or March. Grand Canyon/Phantom Ranch/Bright Angel Points 50/11,000' Limit 20 Register with the leader, Ken Yarcho 303-985-9301
The USGS's Cascade Volcano Observatory reports that the number of small magnitude earthquakes beneath Mt. St. Helens has increased steadily recently. As a precaution, hiking trails on the mountain are closed until observers see if new cracks have been opened that might allow rainwater to penetrate to the hot zone, setting off steam explosions. Similar seismic activity in 1989-91 threw dome rocks up to half a mile away and sent ash plumes as high as 20,000 feet.
Because these events can happen without warning, some trails have been closed, although the Forest Service does not expect a major eruption.
British mountaineer, George Mallory, disappeared near the summit of Everest in 1924. On May 14th of this year his grandson, George Mallory, topped out on Everest via the difficult North Ridge. Also climbing were Americans Jeff Hall, Dan Aguilar and Jim Litch.
Stephen Koch wants to snowboard down the highest peaks on the seven continents! He snowboarded the Polish Glacier route on 22,834-foot Aconcagua in South America in 1993. This year he hopes to descend Kilimanjaro and Mt. Elbrus. Koch has also snowboarded Mount Hood in Oregon, Gannett Peak inWyoming and many couloirs in the Tetons
November 3 to 5, 1995
The Banff Centre, Banff, Alberta, Canada
The best films and videos on mountain subjects will be shown at the Banff Festival of Mountain Films. The weekend's activities include continuous film screenings, public forums on mountain issues, an adventure trade fair and a mountain art and craft sale. Guest speakers include Heinrich Harrer, an Austrian mountaineer who became a tutor of the Dalai Lama prior to the Chinese invasion of Tibet and Lynn Hill who will present a slide show on Friday night.
Kurt Diemberger, Marc Twight, Royal Robbins, Sid Mary and Bruno Engler will read from their works at the 2nd annual Banff Mountain Book Festival on November 1-5.
ACROSS
8 Second but
harder
9 Everest trek view
10 1980 boom
11 '94 HAMS success
12
Whymper's fame
13 Canaleta misery
14 Third in N.A.
15 N.W.
giant
16 Ellingwood first
17 Picture perfect volcano
18 Seventh
highest
DOWN
1 First in 48
2 "Great One"
3 Mallory's
mystery
4 Ark's rest
5 Quito neighbor
6 CMC in "96
7 South seas
captain
8 Kibo and Uhuru
19 Eastwood's sanction
The Annapurna IV Expedition to Nepal has been moved to September of
1996. A few positions for qualified climbers still exist to complete the team
of nine people. Our goal is rarely climbed Annapurna IV (7525 meters) by the
standard Northwest Ridge route. We will fly a chartered aircraft from Katmandu
to Hongde, a seven mile walk to Base Camp. This allows the Nepalese portion of
the expedition to be four weeks in duration, rare for a peak of this magnitude.
From Base Camp we will put in four camps to 22,950' before the summit attempt.
It is one of the few straightforward 7500 meter peaks in the world. There have
not been any deaths on this peak and expeditions have a 66% success rate. . If
you are looking for experience above 7000 meters before attempting 8000 meters,
this peak is for you. The expedition has the CMC Foundation sponsorship to
perform medical research and is therefore tax deductible
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