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Blanca Peak, 14345', and Ellingwood Point, 14042' - Trip report

        From: Alan Silverstein
        Date: Wed, 20 Jul 88 19:41:13 GMT
        Subject: Trip reports:  Sangre de Cristos, San Juans
        Newsgroups: hpnc.general

        This is the first of a series of five trip  reports  on my Great
        Escape  this  summer, to the Sangre de  Cristos  and San  Juans.
        June 30 through  July 9 I climbed  seven  peaks,  including  six
        Fourteeners,  on five  climbing  days, and  gained  over  16,300
        vertical  feet.  I spent nine  consecutive  nights  camping out,
        hence less than $200 in direct expenses, and drove  Triceratops,
        my 1973 Jeep  Wagoneer,  over 1000 miles,  much of it in 4WD.  I
        enjoyed one cold, dewy night at 14150', and  witnessed  a second
        fabulous sunrise after one grind of a night climb.

        For  some  strange  reason,  I'm  enjoying  revisiting  Colorado
        Fourteeners.  I've now been up 18 of them a *second* time.
        ________________

        Saturday, July 2:  Blanca Peak, 14345', and Ellingwood Point, 14042'

        The  previous  Thursday  after work, I drove down to  Walsenburg
        alone  in about  4-1/2  hours.  I found a camp  site in  Lathrop
        State Park off US 160 just west of town, fairly late.  Early the
        next  morning I  continued  west and then north to meet Paul and
        Carolyn  Beiser at 0900.  We joined up on the rocky road to Lake
        Como, at the point  where it turns 4WD.  This is 3.3 miles north
        of the  160/150  junction  and 2.1 miles  east of the  pavement,
        across a cattle guard on a now-unmarked road.

        The Lake Como road is  frightening.  It's awful  because  nobody
        maintains  it.  I took it  pretty  slow,  but  still had to stop
        twice  to  reattach  the  shift  linkage  to  the  transmission!
        Fortunately,  Jeeps  are easy to work on, and the  Beisers  were
        patient...

        As the road climbs the view west and down to the San Luis Valley
        becomes  increasingly  spectacular.  2:05  later  and 3.9  miles
        more, we reached some old ruins at about  10400'.  Here a lot of
        bare,  jutting rock blocks the road pretty  effectively,  unless
        you have a narrow  wheelbase  and lots of guts.  We  parked  the
        Jeep.  The Beisers went on ahead while I spent a couple of hours
        putting  together a backpack  -- I really had hoped to drive all
        the way to Lake Como -- and  chatted  with some camp kids  who'd
        driven up from New Mexico.

        My pack must have  weighed 60 pounds.  It was my first time with
        a new, spacious, comfortable backpack, and I thought it was only
        1/2 mile more to the lake, so I tossed in a lot of junk  without
        careful  planning.  Sigh.  It  turned  out to be more  like  two
        miles (I still  don't  know  exactly  how far it is).  We gained
        ~1560' to a lovely campsite above the lake, where the trees thin
        out,  at  11960'.  It  took  me  from  1310  to  1520  to go the
        distance.

        We had a pleasant  evening.  Saturday morning dawned quite cold,
        being  it was  early  July,  so we were  slow to get  going.  We
        followed  the trail up at 0650, deep in  shadow,  surrounded  by
        peaks catching early sunlight.  The jeep road tapers into a very
        good trail that continues quite a long way, though you can't see
        it from below.  We didn't  leave it, to  scramble  directly  for
        Blanca Peak, until well above Crater Lake -- still  frozen over,
        in icy blue stillness, a huge boulder parked in it.

        The  scrambling  straight N to the summit from above the lake is
        pretty  decent,  as I  remembered.  We made the  summit at 0935;
        2:45 to climb  2400'.  The peak is small and steep on all sides,
        with a very nice view.  Mount  Hamilton,  a  foothill  to the S,
        blocks some of that  direction.  Awesome Little Bear Peak stands
        before the distant San Juans and the San Luis Valley 6000' below
        to the SW.  With  binoculars, I made out  Uncompahgre  Peak, 113
        miles away!  The Sand Dunes are hidden by Ellingwood  Point, but
        the  Crestones and Pikes Peak are quite visible to the N and NE.
        Huerfano  Valley and Mount Lindsey  complete the panorama to the
        E.  On the summit remains a lot of graffiti  scratched  into the
        rocks, some from 1909.

        After an hour -- not long enough -- we departed down the N ridge
        toward   Ellingwood  Point.  Little  cumulus  clouds  formed  in
        thermals to the E, a sign of weather to come.  The ridge down is
        lots of fun, with sheer 2000' cliffs to the right and steep rock
        to the left, yet lots of room to descend easily.  We reached the
        13680' saddle at 1110.

        There is a relatively  easy cairned  route that drops about 100'
        more to get around steep rock past the saddle.  We followed this
        down, then  rejoined the ridge up to  Ellingwood  Point at 1150;
        1:18 from Blanca Peak, with a gain of about 460'.  Like  Blanca,
        Ellingwood  is  rather  small  and  has  a  very  nice  view  --
        especially of the N face of Blanca, which  appears  unassailably
        steep!

        Once on the second  peak, we would have  liked to spend  several
        hours.  However, by now towering cumulus were well formed, so we
        left at 1225.  Just for fun we  followed  the SW  ridge  off the
        summit.  From Blanca it appeared  much  easier and less  exposed
        than was actually  the case.  Lots of fun!  But slow.  So before
        long we headed  straight  down the steep slope from about 13600'
        towards Crater Lake, carefully picking a doable route.  This too
        had its "moments".

        I reached the lake at 1350 and spent some time  enjoying  it and
        circling  its S side while the  Beisers  went  straight  back to
        camp.  I  crossed a saddle  with a great  view, S of the  12840'
        knob, and  rejoined  the trail.  It started to  drizzle  and get
        real dark to the west.  Just  after I reached  camp at 1515, the
        skies opened up -- talk about  timing.  We spent  several  hours
        resting in our tents  before  coming out for dinner and a mellow
        cold evening.

This article used with permission of the author.


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