|
||
|
|
||
|
|
|
|
Information Service |
Several friends and I headed out early Saturday from Denver for a wildcat climb of Mount Massive (14,421'). This is a report of the conditions that we encountered as well as some comments about the route.
Our route was the standard from Mount Massive Trailhead and up the East slope described by Borneman and Lampert. I would probably not have done it this way except that it was a new route for me. I had climbed Mount Massive before by the West Slope route described by Roach. As usual, the standard route is the easiest in terms of skill, having a trail all the way to the summit. Borneman and Lampert recommend that everyone stay off the west side for environmental reasons. Roach's approach is to cover every known route and spread the people out. Roach lists all of the routes as Grade II, Class 2, but I would say that routes other than the East slope require a higher skill set of at least Wilderness Trekking School.
![]() |
We had mostly dry trails until after we turned off of the Main Range/Colorado Trail. Except for the parking lot, water in the streams and creeks was running high but not out of the banks. |
| Waiting to cross the Willow Creek. |
|
After turning onto the Mount Massive Trail, we started to encounter a few left-over snow drifts and the trail became muddy (11,400'). As usual, if you are not willing to walk in the mud and snow to stay on the trail, please do not come here until it has dried out. |
![]() |
![]() |
As the trees thinned out near timberline, snowfields were encountered. We put on our gaiters as the edges of the fields were soft and we broke through. After about ten feet from the edge, the snow was consolidated enough to walk on. This was just below 12,000 feet. |
| Putting on gaiters for the snow. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
| Consolidated snow away from the
edges. |
Looking at the Mosquito Range to the east.
|
![]() |
![]() |
| Flowers and a ptarmigan found above timberline. | |
|
The snowfields were spotty up till about 13,000 feet. Then the snow was continuous except for rock out-crops. We stayed on the visible portions of the trail and then kick-stepped up the col to the south of the summit. This would be were the trail is if there had been no snow. Most people were heading for the south ridge of South Massive and climbing over the summit of South Massive in hopes of finding a less steep climb. |
![]() |
| Kicking steps up to the summit
ridge. |
|
|
Since we drove up from Denver, we were running a little late. By the time we approached the summit around 1 PM, we were sinking in about six inches. Upon reaching the summit, we could hear the sound of avalanches in the valley west of the mountain. A couple who climbed the West slope route to North Massive confirmed that they had heard and seen avalanches in the valley. A large cornice could be seen below the North summit, the same place that I had seen one in July two years ago. Looking around from the summit, it appeared that the snow cover was a bit less on the west facing slopes. |
![]() |
![]() |
We spent almost an hour on the summit before glissading back down our route. The snow conditions made for a quick but controlled descent. By the time we were below the snow line, we were glad we had not carried our snowshoes with us. |
| View of the summit. |
|
![]() |
|
| View to the west from the
summit. |
|
![]() |
|
| Glissading from the summit ridge. |
Keith Jensen
Return to the
CMC home page.
This page maintained by Keith Jensen .