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Volume 2 Number
3
March 1990
We do plan to have a get-together at Keith Jensen's house on May 4th. Those who have slides of some high altitude climbs anywhere in the world are invited to bring them along (limit the presentation to 10 minutes so everyone will have a chance to show slides). Those of us who do not have anything to show can just sit back and enjoy photos of adventures in many different areas of the world. The party should be fun as well as a great opportunity for networking. Guests are always welcome.
Our upcoming programs include the May presentation of a climb of Kilimanjaro and other shots from Africa. A number of HAMS members participated on the trip lead by Condor Adventures. After May, the next meeting will be in September (no meetings during the summer). At that time we hope to have slides of a successful Mt. McKinley expedition by three of our members. We have been invited by the Tech Section to participate in their annual summer picnic. It will be held on a Sunday afternoon in mid July. Call the Club for details.
The education committee secured approval for yet another High Altitude
Mountaineering trip. This time, it will be an expedition to conquer
Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Western and Southern Hemispheres. The trip
leaves on January 16th and will return February 5th, 1991. Our next newsletter
will have information about the upcoming High Altitude
Mountaineering Seminar. Programs run for six consecutive Tuesday evenings
starting October 16th. The long awaited HAM school will follow that.
Following a rest day, we will climb Ixta 17,342' by "the knees" route. This is our longest day but the route is not very steep, traversing over false summits and broad snow fields.
Another rest day with travel brings us to the town of Tlachichua at the foot of Orizaba 18,200'. From here, a four wheel drive taxi takes us to the spartan hut at Piedra Grande. We will climb the Jamapa Glacier to the top of the third highest peak in North America. Afterwards, it's back to Mexico City and the flight home to Denver.
With all three peaks, altitude is the only major difficulty usually encountered. Equipment needed is the same as would be required for a spring climb of a 14'er. Technical difficulties are minimal, but ice axe and crampons are essential and a rope may be necessary if ice conditions dictate. All the peaks are one-day climbs requiring predawn starts.
Applicants must be a CMC member, be a strong hiker and have been through
BMS or have equivalent skills using ice axe and crampons. Cost is $800, which
may change slightly depending on final airfare arrangements. The price includes
airfare, ground transportation, some group meals and group equipment. A $100
non-refundable deposit is required. This trip has been approved by the CMC
Outings Committee. To sign up or receive more info, contact the leader Terry
Root.
HAMS will send up to 10 climbers, including two leaders during the central Andean summer. We will fly from Denver to Mendosa, Argentina then by bus to the trailed at Puente del Inca. Mules will carry our gear in the 24 miles to base camp at about 14,000'. After acclimating for a few days, we will climb by either the Normal Route or the slightly harder Polish Glacier depending on the makeup of the group, establishing camps at 17,000' and at 19,300'. There will be ample rest days between camps to acclimate slowly and sit out bouts of bad weather.
Participants must be CMC members, be strong hikers and have some previous high altitude climbing or trekking experience. No technical experience required. Equipment required includes what would be expected for possibly extended winterish weather at high camps. The cost is $2400 and includes airfare, ground transportation, mule costs, various group gear and group food. There is a $200 non-refundable deposit. This trip has been approved by the CMC Outings Committee. For more information and to sign up, contact the coordinator Terry Root.
HAMS held its second training seminar dealing with skills useful in high altitude pursuits on March 10. Though the warm weather was in danger of melting the ice from beneath our feet, we had a good turn out in Clear Creek Canyon. The focus of the session was on what to do if a small ice problem is encountered on a climb, such as a short section of 45 degree water ice. We reviewed ice equipment, how to set up a safe belay and techniques on ice. We also got some useful info on how best to teach this subject in the upcoming HAMS school slated to start up this fall. Thanks to the ten students and instructors Dave (smooth moves) Anschicks, Randy (wanna buy my axe) Eisen and Terry (let's pretend) Root.
In August/September of 1990, alpinist Alan Burgess is offering a rare opportunity to participate in an expedition on a major Himalayan peak. He will accompany a small group of climbers to the twin peaks of Nun/Kun (elevation 7100 meters/23,400') located in the rugged and forbidding landscape of Zanskar in northern India.
This unique 34 day adventure is available to any climber or experienced
trekker who is ready to expand their personal horizons by challenging the
summit of a 7000 meter Himalayan peak. The only requirements are basic
mountaineering skills and an adventuresome spirit! The expedition will depart
for India on the 24th of August and return the 24th of September, 1990.
As essential logistics must be finalized at the earliest possible date,
prospective expedition members are urged to inquire immediately for additional
information. All inclusive ground and air cost approximately $5,000. The
Nun/Kun expedition 14 day support trek to the expedition base camp will cost
approximately $3000.
Hiking is a recreational activity attracting many persons in Colorado. Some of these persons ultimately move into moderate mountaineering of the type found in summer climbs of many Colorado 13ers and 14ers. To do something higher and more strenuous than a 14er requires a special effort as such mountains do not exist in the continental U.S. The effort required to go higher than 14,495' (Mt. Whitney in California) does hold an allure for a certain few and makes one wonder: "Can I really do this? Do I have what it takes?"
1989 ended on a fast pace for this writer in terms of mountaineering. December found us doing a fun filled attempt on Kilimanjaro with Condor Adventures: "Yes, we're actually here! This isn't Everest, but it is the big kahuna as far as we're concerned." It was a great eye-opener all around: the first try on something higher than 14,500'; the first trip overseas; the first trip to the Third World; the longest by far vacation ever taken; the first extended campouts; the first time on a real glacier. Yes, it was definitely a trip of superlatives and we could safely say: "this ain't no A hike!"
We won't bore the experienced mountaineers reading this with all of the minute details of the trip. The first one is meaningful usually only for the person actually doing it. Some questions were answered: "Yes, I can function somewhat above 15,000'; I can sleep up high; I know more about what works and what doesn't in terms of preparation, clothing, etc." But, the basic question is still unanswered: "Can I really do this? Do I have the ability?" I did get to the crater rim at about 18,700' and the summit tantalized and tempted those of us who stopped at the rim from just a few hundred feet higher. The spirit was willing, but the gas tank was empty. Hypoxia and fatigue reigned supreme in this writer's body . . . . .
So, what will the final answer be? Only one way to find out, get high again as soon as possible!
Javier, my Peruvian business pa-rtner, and I flop onto the summit together. We peek over the sheer 10,000' south face and try to imagine launching a paraglider into that void. SICK! Seven months ago I stalled my glider forty feet above the Sacred Valley of the Inca in Peru and was lucky to walk away with a shattered left wrist and two compressed vertebrae. Otherwise, I would probably be spreading out the glider right now. Where does one draw the line between living for the moment and living for the future? To live for now is to launch into space and tickle the brain with adrenaline. To live for the future is to plod back down the mountain on foot so that you can be sure you'll get to the base of the next one.
Two hours later the last of our party arrive on the summit. Everyone is either relieved or happy but, in any case, emotional. We descend in a snowstorm to Berlin Camp at 19,600'. Two days later we are back in the city of Mendoza.
Suddenly, the rope starts piling up in my lap and before I have time to comprehend, I'm jerked off my feet upwards as I increase the grip on the rope to stop it from whipping through my belay plate. Makato is now swinging upside down just eight feet above me. He has fallen at least forty feet, but he is okay. He snaps his jumars onto the rope and fires back up to his highest piece of protection. He has pulled a fixed piton out and that caused the screamer. Spectacular place to fall! We are a vertical mile above the glacier on dead steep granite.
Wind and clouds started pounding the summit an hour ago and we are definitely pressing our luck by going on. Ten minutes pass as Makato continues the lead. Again, slack rope is rapidly dumped in my lap and my partner is airborne for thirty feet this time! We are on the infamous "Bridwell Pitch" put in by J.B. himself in 1979. It is now a rotting mess of old slings and bent bolts. Makato has ripped through a ten year old tie off loop, causing his second fall. He is a sturdy guy and only complains of a bruised" elbow.
Back up he goes and this time makes the next belay station without incident. I arrive at his belay and quickly snap on my crampons for the ice mushroom pitch to the summit. Fifteen minutes later we are both kneeling on a place so small and remote and beautiful, we can't believe it. Gale force winds drive us off the summit after five minutes. Great triumph! Let's get the hell out of here! It is 7:30 PM and we have 20 complicated rappels back to our bivy ledge.
The descent is an endless blur of traversing rappels, loose rock, stuck ropes and lost gear. At 2:30 AM we are in our sleeping bags and only 17 rappels to the dreamed of horizontal ground.
What we have accomplished doesn't have meaning for me yet. I just want to get to a place where it is flat, where I don't have to be tied in. The climb has been one of the harder of my career. In two days we have climbed 37 pitches of rock, ice, snow and mixed, with difficulty up to 5.9, AI, using plastic boots all the way. The first 17 pitches were climbed with full packs: sleeping bags, food, fuel, stove, pad, bivy sack, water and cameras. We climbed mostly without belaying, just moving together with 50 meters of rope between us. There is no time to belay in Patagonia, speed is everything.
The morning arrives too soon, but the weather is still stable. The sun hits us around 8:00 AM and we quickly eat, drink, pack and start the rappel. On the glacier below we notice two climbers sliding a body in a sleeping bag slowly towards the moraine camp.
Five rappels down we arrive at the standard snow cave bivy, which we elected not to use because it is too low on the route. Here we encounter six climbers waiting for their chance. So far this season over thirty teams have attempted to ascend Cerro Torre. Only three pairs have stood atop the ice mushroom. Hands are grasped all around. Everyone is happy for us and we answer all of the usual questions.
Two Italians decide to throw in the towel and descend with us. This is good news because our ropes are trashed and dangerous even for rappelling. We all Four descend to the glacier on their brand new ropes. An hour later we are on the glacier. What a relief! Quickly we run to catch up with the rescue going on down on the moraine. We arrive and help a German boy with a severe concussion into the Moraine Camp. He was hit by rock fall low on Cerro Torre. His helmet is completely shattered and it is incredible that he has survived at all. This was the third accident in two weeks, the other two resulting in the deaths of four strong young climbers.
Makato and I leave the stabilized German with his friends and race off to get a helicopter. The next morning he is picked up and flown to the hospital. He will live to climb another day.
On the morning of the helicopter rescue the clouds roll in and chase the remaining climbers back to base camp. It is almost March and it feels like the Patagonian summer is over. I only have one more day to wait for the "churasco" and after that I'll sadly head to North America. Senor Gera, the local gaucho, has killed a cow and is now roasting huge slabs of beef over an open fire. This is a celebration not only for Makato and I, but for whoever else is around as well. Guitars emerge, jug wine is passed, girls are kissed, beef is eaten - we are all so happy. This is the real Argentina, man!
This article examines the prevention and currently accepted treatments for Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). The guidelines are conservative and in no way are a guarantee that a climber will remain free of one of these syndromes. When traveling at altitudes greater than 12,000' to 14,000', the climber should always maintain a keen awareness of any symptoms that may be related to altitude or failure to acclimatize. What is particularly serious is the rapidity with which early symptoms of HACE can progress to ataxia, coma and death. Cases are reported of this occurring in less than 8 hours.
In Mountain Sickness by Peter Hackett M.D. the above scheme is slightly different. He recommends once above 10,000' that you limit your average altitude gain to 1000' per day and take a rest day every 3000'.
An appropriate level of exertion is an important factor since the onset of altitude symptoms is related to a decrease in oxygen to body tissues. Overexertion will contribute to this decrease even if the individual is well conditioned.
Another factor that has been shown to be beneficial is a high carbohydrate diet. Carbohydrates are known to speed the body's process of acclimatization. A diet of at least 70% carbohydrates can reduce symptoms of acute mountain sickness by about 30%, if started one to two days prior to ascent.
Additionally, it is important to maintain adequate hydration by increasing fluid intake. With the increase in exertion associa1/ted with climbing and the general dryness of the air, there is a significant increase in overall fluid loss. Colder environments also increase predisposition to altitude illness. Take extra precautions to stay warm and avoid hypothermia.
For most climbers prevention of altitude illness is accomplished by a planned staged ascent. Currently there are two drugs that have been used to prevent the development of these syndromes. Acetazolamide (Diamox) is a mild diuretic and has the effect on the body of "spee20ding" acclimatization. It has been studied and shown to decrease the incidence of altitude illness. Many people will experience side effects of the drug (up to 40%) which include numbness and tingling of the fingers, toes or face, increased urine output, mild nausea and mild fatigue or weakness. A second drug, Dexamethasone (Decadron) has also been shown effective in preventing symptoms associated with altitude illness and appears to have fewer side effects. This drug is a potent steroid and side effects include a mild stomach upset, altered mood and sometimes bizarre dreams. When the drug is discontinued altitude symptoms may return.
It is currently recommended that climbers should not routinely take these medications. The effectiveness of Acetazolamide is not 100% and may lead to a false sense of security. Specific situations when either drug is recommended are 1) for individuals with a prior history of altitude illness; 2) individuals who are forced to make a rapid ascent for rescue purposes or due 42to local environmental factors.
When symptoms are more "moderate" (more intense), descent should always be considered the primary form of treatment. For HAPE it may take as litt53le as 1500' to 3000' for the individual to improve. After a one to two days rest, it may be possible to resume climbing at a slower pace. Moderate symptoms of HACE should be treated by descent of at least 3000' with close observation to assure symptoms are improving. Symptoms of HACE must be watched much more carefully since they may progress rapidly.
A good test to assess the severity of possible AMS or HACE is a test for ataxia. The climber should attempt to walk a straight line (where this is possible) placing one foot immediately in front of the other in a heel-to-toe fashion. If the individual is unable to accomplish this, consider descent.
For severe symptoms of AMS, HAPE or HACE descend as quickly as possible. Waiting overnight in a bivouac could mean death for the affected climber. Recognizing the symptoms at an early stage may permit self-evacuation. Later stage evacuation may prove more difficult or even fatal. Keep the exertion of the individual to a minimum and keep the person warm.
If available, oxygen is very beneficial for altitude illness. It can be life saving in severe cases and should be combined with descent. However, do not delay descent waiting for an air drop of oxygen. The dosage used will depend on the severity of the symptoms and available supply. Any expedition with a prolonged exposure to altitude greater than 14,000' should consider having oxygen available.
When treating mild to moderate HAPE, acetazolamide may be used with some benefit but should also be combined with descent. The use of dexamethasone is not clearly defined in HAPE but appears to have dramatic effects in treating HACE. The drug appears to have a stabilizing effect and will reverse many of the symptoms of HACE. However, if the drug is stopped the symptoms will return promptly. Descending is always your best defense.
A relatively new device called the Gamow bag is now available for on-site treatment. This bag is a portable hyperbaric chamber (weighing 7 kg) inside which a climber can be placed and the bag pumped up with a foot pump. This has the effect of rapidly "lowering" the climber by an altitude of 3000' to 6000'. The symptoms will generally clear rapidly when the bag is pressurized. This device is already credited with saving many lives on Everest and other 8000-meter peaks. It is rapidly becoming standard equipment for major expeditions around the world.
Another device that has been used is an EPAP mask. This device is used to increase the airway pressure at the end of expiration thereby increasing the pressure of oxygen in the lungs. This will result in an increase of oxygen saturation in the blood. A climber can also simulate this by "pursed-lip" or "grunt breathing." Practice this by exhaling against partially closed lips to create an increased backpressure in the lungs.
In summary, the climber should always attempt to ascend at a reasonable pace to avoid developing altitude illness. If symptoms develop, the primary treatment is always descent. Drugs are available and effective if the limitations and side effects are clearly understood. The climber should use common sense, maintain a keen awareness for symptoms and exercise personal responsibility to avoid fatalities or major illness from AMS, HAPE or HACE. --Mark Frank, M.D.
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