Volume 2 Number 4
Volume_2.html#Volume_2
Volume 2 Number
4
September 1990
In This Issue
#Program Night: September 17,
1990
#High Altitude Mountaineering
Seminar
#High Altitude Mountaineering
School
#Chairman’s Message
#Americans on Cho-Oyu 1991
#The AAC Access Fund
#HAMS School Seeking
Instructors
#HAMS TOP LINE Fall 1990
Program Night: September 17,
1990
The next meeting of the High altitude Section is Monday night,
September 17, 1990, at 7:00 PM, at the Denver Clubrooms. Members of two recent
expeditions to Denali will discuss their trips and show slides. Due to weather
and illness, only one person from the two parties (Terry Root) actually
summited. Find out more about the preparation and logistics of an Alaska climb,
as well as theories and practices regarding nutrition, glacier travel, and
weather problems on the "Great One." Then, organize your own trip to the
highest peak in North America.
High Altitude
Mountaineering Seminar
The High Altitude Mountaineering Section will soon
be presenting its second High Altitude Mountaineering Seminar. The series
consists of six sessions held on consecutive Tuesday evenings beginning October
9th. World-class climbers and other experts in their fields will present
lectures on topics such as organizing expeditions, equipment, arranging travel,
fitness, nutrition and menu planning, group dynamics, high altitude illnesses,
cold and related injuries, travelers illnesses, and the pros and cons of guided
climbs. In addition, each session will feature a short slide presentation on
climbing various peaks in the high regions of the world. Programs are held in
the C.M.C. Clubhouse auditorium in Denver (see address below) and each starts
at 7:00pm.
The Seminar is open to anyone with an interest in learning about what it is
like to climb high peaks. Cost is $15.00 and must be paid in advance. Space is
limited. To register, send your name, address and a check for $15.00 to the
Colorado Mountain Club, 2530 West Alameda, Denver 80219.
Those who attended the previous seminar may be interested in signing
up for this year's as well. Many of the presenters will be different and new
topics have been added. Attendance at each seminar session is a prerequisite
for admission to the High Altitude Mountaineering School (see accompanying
article).
High Altitude
Mountaineering School
A High Altitude Mountaineering School has been
formed for Colorado Mountain Club members interested in extending their
training to participate in expeditions to high altitude peaks around the world.
The school starts with the High Altitude Mountaineering Seminar on October 9th
(see below) and concludes with an optional trip to Mr. Rainier in the Spring of
1991.
The school will train students in the basic technical skills of glacier
travel including crevasse rescue, low-angle ice techniques, rope management and
shelters. To do this, four field trips are scheduled in January and February
1991. Denver Group members entering the school must have successfully completed
the Denver Basic Mountaineering School and have a Denver "D" classification.
Members from other groups must meet equivalent requirements. Cost for the
School is $70 (plus $15 for the Seminar). Anyone interested should immediately
sign up for theHigh Altitude Mountaineering Seminar and attend all six
sessions. An information packet will be available at the first Seminar session
and applications will be accepted at that time. Enrollment in the School will
be very limited. For more information about the school, contact School
Director, Rich McAdams.
Newsletter Volunteers Needed
We are currently having a rotation of Section members within this important
committee. We have current openings for 1 or 2 dedicated individuals to help
produce this newsletter. It appears five times per year, with a production
meeting and a mailing meeting occurring in the months prior to issues coming
out. These meetings are short if we have several individuals present at each.
If you would like more information, call Steve Bonowski.
#Volume 2 Number 4
Reminder Item
Thin Air is available to
Section members for advertising for climbing partners wanted, borrowing
/selling/trading/ want to purchase of equipment, events, etc. Copy should be
typed, or legibly handwritten, and sent to the Clubrooms. There is no charge
for such announcements so long as we don't get a "flood."
Trail Goodies Available
We were
recently contacted by a lady who has a small company producing some interesting
fruitcakes. The company is "Hope for the Best, Inc." and makes date pecan cakes
along with cranberry pecan cakes. The flavors come from prime pecans, raisins,
cranberries, dates, along with delicate whispers of spices. There is no
shortening-butter or vegetable oils-so the texture Is intriguing as well as the
natural taste. Both cakes have been laboratory tested and have a shelf life at
room temperature of 6+ months. Both cakes were tested on a Spring climb of Mt.
Silverheels and received rave reviews.
Social Event Announced
The
Section's next social event has been scheduled for Friday, November 16. More
information will be provided in the November issue of Thin Air.
Chairman’s Message
Dan Leeth
We hope that all Section members had a safe and productive
summer climbing season. We will have an exciting fall and winter season indoors
with HAMS as well as outside. Information about Round 2 of the High Altitude
Seminar, and the new High Altitude School, is contained elsewhere within this
issue. Programs are being scheduled for November and on into 1991. We hope to
have one or more educational activities in 1991 along with a continuation of
our "vital series" of social events. As always, comments and input from Section
members, and volunteer help, is most welcome.
Americans on Cho-Oyu 1991
Americans on Cho-Oyu 1991 would like to hear from experienced mountaineers who
would be interested in participating in a Fall climb of Cho-Oyu in 1991 from
Tibet. Cho-Oyu is 8201 meters tall and is situated on the Tibetan-Nepalese
border about 22km northwest of Mr. Everest. The team current team consists of 5
mountaineers and we are looking to add 3 to 5 more. The current schedule calls
for us to depart the US on Sept 1, 1991. We will enter China from Zhangmu via
Kathmandu and plan on the climb taking 6 to 8 weeks. We would prefer
mountaineers who have been above 6000 meters. We require team players. If
interested contact Jerry Kennedy in Boulder.
The AAC Access Fund
As climbing moves
into the 1990's and beyond, one of the biggest problems confronting all
climbers is Access. The loss of access to climbing or bouldering areas is an
issue that affects every climber, regardless of technical ability or stylistic
preferences. The responsibility for solving or preventing access problems
likewise rests with each and every climber. Minimizing environmental impact,
and being sensitive to behavior which could affect access will help prevent
problems. When access problem. do arise, the Access Committee of the American
Alpine Club can help negotiate, organize and even litigate restrictions or
closures of climbing areas. But, negotiations and litigation can't solve every
access problem; some access problems can only be averted or solved by money.
It is for this reason that the AAC Access Fund was established. The Access
Fund will finance the purchase of climbing and bouldering areas and easements,
and provide funding for other pressing access projects throughout the country.
Since the Access Fund is independently administered, all moneys raised will go
directly to this vital access work. More importantly, your tax deductible
contribution to the Access Fund is a concrete way of giving something back to
climbing and making a real difference in the effort to save the rich diversity
of climbing resources in the United States. To send your donation to the Access
Fund (payable to the American Alpine Club), write the Access Fund.
HAMS School Seeking
Instructors
The CMC is looking for a few good men and women! The new High
altitude Mountaineering School is seeking instructors for classes scheduled to
start up this fall. If you have experience or previous training in any area of
expedition climbing such as organizing, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, ice
climbing, or snow camping we would like to talk with you. We have a need for
people at any level of commitment, from those who can only help out on one day
in an area they are knowledgeable with to those who can commit to all four
weekend field trips. We know there is a lot of expertise out there in our
membership. Come share your particular expertise with your fellow CMC'er.. Plan
to attend our instructor planning meeting at the Denver clubrooms on October 2
at 7:00 P.M. For more details contact the HAMS School Director, Rich McAdams.
#Volume 2 Number 4
HAMS TOP LINE Fall 1990
Top Line is a listing of recent ascents above 15000 ft by High Altitude
Mountaineering Section members who have submitted a trip report. The purpose of
the trip reports (and not coincidentally their top line) is to publish
who’s gone where. If you desire more information, you may contact the
listed climber or peruse the HAMS Trip Report File at the CMC Clubhouse in
Denver (the files may be copied but must remain in the clubhouse). To get your
climb listed, complete a trip report (on the back of this page) and send it to
Joe Fromme.
|
Peak |
Elevation |
Location |
Climber |
| Peak Lenin |
23405 ft |
USSR |
Dan Leeth |
| Aconcagua |
22834 ft |
Argentina |
Elmar Fend, Dan Leeth |
| Huascaran |
22205 ft |
Peru |
Steve Bragg |
| Illiruani |
21201 ft |
Bolivia |
Dan Leeth |
| Island Peak |
20351 ft |
Nepal |
John Wallack, Joe Fromme |
| Alpamayo |
19619 ft |
Peru |
Dave Bamberger |
| Kilimanjaro |
19340 ft |
Tanzania |
Hugh Grove |
| Pisco |
19300 ft |
Peru |
Dave Bamberger |
| Orizaba |
18700 ft |
Mexico |
Dan Leeth, Steve Bragg, Bruce Lichtenberger |
| Popocatepetl |
17888 ft |
Mexico |
Steve Bragg, Dan Leeth, Joe Fromme |
| Ixtseihuatyl |
17343 ft |
Mexico |
Steve Bragg, Joe Fromme |
| Mont Blanc |
15771 ft |
France/Italy |
Charlie Winger |
RESEARCH COMMITTEE REPORT TO THE MEMBERS
We have been working on two items:
(1) Setting up the HAMS Trip Report Information System; and
(2)
Identifying potential areas where the Research Committee can be useful.
The HAMS Trip Report Information System can help you find out who's gone
where you're planning to go. It has three parts, a Trip Report Form which
climbers flu out after making a climb, a Trip Report File where the completed
forms are kept and where you can have access to them, and the Trip Report File
summary of recent high altitude climbs that will be published in Thin Air so
you will know what is available. The Trip Report Form has been redesigned,
hopefully with an emphasis on what climbers want to know. You may attach as
much additional information as you want (Dan Leeth's attachments on Peak Lenin
are a good example of how this can add some fascinating detail that no form
could match). The Trip Report File is now set up and available for your use at
the Clubhouse in Denver. It has two parts, the High Altitude File for climbs
over 15000 ft, and the International File for climbs out of the USA but under
15000 ft. For example, Charlie Winger's climb of the Matterhorn (14700 ft) is
in the International File. If your trip is not listed, or if there are errors
or just plain comments, let us know and we'll be glad to work on it.
The
Research Committee is expanding its area of potential activity to include high
altitude nutrition, acute mountain sickness, high altitude mountaineering
equipment, and the problem of technology transfer from recent developments into
high altitude mountaineering. We do need help on some of these research
projects, so read on ...
NEW RESEARCH COMMITTEE MEMBER NEEDED
If you can answer yes to the following questions, Joe Fromme would be
delighted to hear from you:
- Do you want to learn more about high altitude mountaineering and share
it with others?
- Are you willing to attend Research Committee meetings and work on
research projects?
Joe Fromme and Dave Bambeger, HAMS Research Committee
#Volume 2 Number 4